There are two types of Patek Philippe’s most popular complication watches: an annual calendar that only needs to be adjusted once a year and a chronograph that emphasizes the timepiece as a precise timing tool. The Patek Philippe Almanac chronograph with these two functions is one of the most admired by many watch enthusiasts. This year, Patek Philippe’s new platinum Ref. 5905P annual calendar chronograph will surely delight enthusiasts of complications.
The new Ref. 5905P almanac chronograph proves once again that by combining unprecedented innovative design and classic complications, you can create an unparalleled new timepiece. The transformation of this masterpiece is first reflected on the dial. Its design is deeply influenced by the Ref. 5205 calendar introduced in 2010, but with new color schemes and more exclusive original details. The chronograph seconds add a clear minute scale to the corresponding outer scale, with a large ring on the inside, with a three-dimensional platinum time scale, and three windows showing the almanac function between the 10 and 2 o’clock positions. The date window at 12 o’clock is large with a polished platinum frame. At 6 o’clock, there is a large 60-minute cumulative timer, and a small day / night window under the hands. This dial layout adds the classic elegance of a Patek Philippe watch to this technologically advanced Ref. 5905 calendar chronograph. The hour and minute hands hanging above the dial feature a novel sword-shaped design with three facets and a central protruding portion covered with Superluminova fluorescent coating. The 5-minute fluorescent minute scale is added to ensure that the dial is legible even at night. The dial is available in navy and black: the blue version highlights the noble elegance of the watch, while the black version shows its extraordinary technical characteristics as a high-tech chronograph.
Self-made platinum case
The dials in both colors gracefully embody the brilliance of a platinum case with a diameter of 42 mm. The contour of the case is balanced and harmonious, and the one-piece design is complete and unobtrusive. The round bezel and the sides of the case blend perfectly with the softly curved lugs. The outer arc of the chronograph start / stop button, crown and chronograph reset button corresponds to the radian of the side of the case. Every detail is extremely precise, and strives to be pleasing to the eye while ensuring easy operation. The case is independently created by Patek Philippe Watchmaking Workshop and is made of 950 platinum, which is perfect in both appearance and finishing details. The manufacturing process of the case includes multiple manual finishing processes, including surface smoothing, sanding, mirror polishing with ultra-fine sandstone, etc., plus repeated strict inspections, it takes two weeks to produce one Case. From the use of high-tonnage presses to cold-pressing platinum blanks to final detail finishing, all links must meet all standards required by Patek Philippe’s mark, and meet all expectations of discerning Patek Philippe customers. The resulting case is exquisite, gorgeous, and flawless, and the Patek Philippe movement displayed with its sapphire crystal caseback is also made in the same exacting manner. Like all Patek Philippe models in platinum, at 6 o’clock between the case and the lower ears, it is set with a top-quality flawless Weston diamond.
A movement that combines two popular complications
With the help of the round transparent cover, we can see the large 21K gold automatic oscillating weight, which ensures that when the watch is worn normally, the movement can always keep running without manual winding. The oscillating weight and the splint are both artistically decorated. Specifically, the movement’s splint is not decorated with classic Geneva stripes, but is rounded with grain to echo the circular pattern on the oscillating weight. The elegant contrast between gold and silver rhodium-plated surfaces, the sparkling chamfering and the rich ruby bearings add light to the CH 28-520 QA 24H movement, enough to make any timepiece collector fascinated.
It combines two popular features, flyback timing and annual calendar. The calendar is based on an exclusive patent obtained by Patek Philippe in 1996. Its calendar display is mainly controlled by gears and pinions, rather than traditional joysticks and forks: rotary motion is easier to control. For nearly 20 years, the Patek Philippe Almanac series has been a classic example of powerful functions and reliable accuracy. Patek Philippe’s patented annual calendar device can display a complete calendar, including automatic recognition of days in different months (except February). If this almanac is up and running, manual adjustments are only required once a year from February to March. The almanac device can display the day of the week, date and month, and control the day / night display. The timing mechanism of the new Ref. 5905P also uses the latest technology. The device follows the tradition and still uses the star wheel to control the start, stop and reset of the timing function. The difference is that the stud wheels control the clamps of the disc-shaped vertical clutch, rather than the fork of the wheel-type horizontal clutch. This design is characterized by high reliability. Its operation mode no longer depends on the meshing of the gears, thus eliminating the risk of the chronograph hands jumping or rebounding when the timing function is activated. Because the disc clutch works almost without wear, the chronograph second hand can act as a continuous second hand without affecting the movement accuracy of the movement. As a result, this almanac chronograph removes the small seconds dial common in most chronographs.
The new Ref. 5905 marks yet another advancement in Patek Philippe’s annual chronograph: it has been refined and fine-tuned to give it a completely new look. This elegant timepiece has a blue dial with a matching navy blue strap. The black dial comes with a matte black alligator strap. Both straps feature 950 platinum pin buckles.
A brief review of the long history of Patek Philippe’s chronograph with calendar function
Since the 1920s, Patek Philippe’s chronographs have been one of the most loved timepieces by customers. Few watchmakers can focus on the development of short-term measurement technology like Patek Philippe, and Patek Philippe not only focuses on technical excellence, but also pays attention to the perfection of details. Although Patek Philippe had purchased basic movements from external suppliers for decades, the movements transformed by Patek Philippe finally reborn. These basic movements seem to be uncut high-quality rough stones. Only Patek Philippe’s highly skilled artisans can make them fully show their true charm.
Back in time 90 years ago, Patek Philippe was one of the earliest watchmakers to start adding complication to chronographs. In 1923, Patek Philippe’s first chronograph watch was equipped with a two-second follow-up hand. In 1940, Patek Philippe introduced the first world time chronograph with a pulse meter and a breath meter (respiratory rate counter). A year later, Patek Philippe began mass production of the perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 1518. Today, this chronograph has become the focus of much attention at international auctions.
Patek Philippe is also known for its calendar watches. The full calendar function displays not only the date, but also the day and month. Particularly popular is the perpetual calendar watch that Patek Philippe first introduced in 1925. Therefore, the chronograph with perpetual calendar function introduced in 1941 was very popular.
In the past 20 years, Patek Philippe has injected new vitality into these legendary classic models, and has continuously brought new surprises to timepiece lovers around the world. In 1996, Patek Philippe introduced its first annual calendar, which not only displayed the day, month, and date, but also only needed to be adjusted once a year at the end of February. The watch uses a new movement structure and is more accessible than the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar watch in price. In 2006, Patek Philippe launched the first self-winding chronograph with an original homemade movement. Its movement was completely developed, designed and manufactured by Patek Philippe. This timepiece is special: it adopts a new annual calendar device to interpret the long tradition of Patek Philippe’s long-standing calendar chronograph. The Ref. 5905 calendar chronograph launched by Patek Philippe this time uses the CH 28-520 QA 24H movement introduced at the time.
Patek Philippe Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905P
Movement: Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H
Mechanical self-winding movement, chronograph with star wheel column and vertical clutch, annual calendar, day / night
Movement diameter: 33 mm (basic movement diameter 30 mm, 33 mm after loading the calendar components)
Movement thickness: 7.68 mm (caliber thickness 5.20 mm, annual calendar component thickness 2.48 mm)
Number of parts 402
Number of jewels 37
Power reserve: at least 45 hours-up to 55 hours
Winding rotor 21K gold central rotor
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hairspring outer bolt: adjustable
Winding crown: Two-position crown:
-Pull out: set time
Display: Central hour and minute hands
Center Chronograph Second / Large Second Hand
60-minute cumulative timer at 6 o’clock
The window shows:
-Week display between 10 and 11 o’clock
-Date display at 12 o’clock with 18K white gold border
-Month display is between 1 and 2 o’clock
-Day / night display at 6 o’clock
Buttons:-2 o’clock button for starting and stopping the timing function
-Button at 4 o’clock for resetting the chronograph and chronograph hand return function
Calibration pin:-Pin at 9 o’clock is used to adjust the week
-Pins between 9 o’clock and 10 o’clock are used to adjust the date
-Pin-off at 10 o’clock for month adjustment
Tagged: Patek Philippe Mark
Case: 950 platinum, sapphire crystal and transparent case
6 between the lugs is set with a top Wesselton diamond
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case size: Diameter: 42 mm
Case length (diagonal length of lugs): 50.46 mm
Width (3 to 9 o’clock crown): 44.45 mm
Depth (mirror to case back): 14.03 mm
Lug pitch: 22 mm
Dial: brass, blue or black
Hour and minute hands: sword-shaped hands with 3 facets, 18K white gold, covered
Superluminova fluorescent coating
Frosted rhodium-plated steel chronograph seconds / continuous seconds with counterweight
60-minute cumulative chronograph hands, brass, white lacquered, with counterweight
18K White Gold Stick Stereo Scales
White transfer scale
Strap: Large square scale crocodile leather strap, hand-stitched, matte navy blue (blue dial) or matte black
Color (black dial), 950 platinum pin buckle
The above content is the cutting-edge information of the Patek Philippe Pavilion at the Basel International Jewellery & Watch Fair 2015 prepared by the staff in front of the Watch House. In the future, we will continue to provide more and more intuitive exhibition reports for everyone, so stay tuned.
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